My rear engine seal was leaking into the clutch housing so it had to be replaced,
while I was at it I decided to replace the old front wiring harness.

The pictures are a little big, but I wanted the detail to be available to visitors who might
benefit from the information in their own repair work.
I am by no means a proffesional mechanic, quite the contrary, so if I can do it so can you!
I hope it is of some help.

The engine is pretty easy to remove. I put tape labels on wires and hoses, just for my peace of mind

The engine compartment was pretty nasty, the wiring is brittle and covered in a lot of paint

Transmission/transfer case and bell housing

To get to the seal you need to remove the clutch and flywheel, if you haven't seen one, here you go
The long shaft is a clutch alignment tool

Mounting the engine on a work stand makes it a lot easier to clean up and repair the unit

This is the rear main bearing cap, it holds the rear main seal in place also
You can just see the oil pump drive gears in the top right of the picture

A shot of the whole lower half of the engine. Crankshaft, oil sump and pump, timing gears, main bearing caps
The long silver bolts you see are homemade guide alignment pins for the oil pan gasket

Timing gears as seen from the bottom of the engine

Rear main seal. Old on the left. The old seal had small cuts in it, don't know how that happened

Flywheel re-attached and bolts torqued to spec

Clutch back in place whith alignment tool still inserted

Alignment tool removed, this is what it should look like when you peek down through the middle
Be sure to torque your bolts to spec

This is the bottom pan for the flywheel housing
The gasket was a real pain in the ass and I ended up tacking it in place prior to installation
Do not know if that is proper procedure or not, but it sure made my life easier
The green tool is a scraper my father built many years ago, holds a safety razor blade and still works great

Bell housing back in place. The long bolts are more home made alignment tools for holding the transmission
while you are hanging it back on the motor, that thing is heavy and this helped a lot
You can see the starter motor mounting point at the one o'clock position on the bell housing

Back hanging from the engine hoist, some basic clean up and touch up took place

Transmission matted back to the engine and ready to be cleaned up a little.
It was a lot easier to clean once mounted to the engine

New spark plug cables and a green painted oil filter, not the genuine article but closer than a white or orange one

Just in case you have never seen it from this view, the front differential and half shafts

More detail to the restoration, the anti-freeze test result was usually written in white crayon or chalk
If you have every been clipped by the hood you can appreciate the warning

New harness in place. My manual seemed to indicate the turn signal plugs were inside the engine compartment
rather than running the harness out to the light units

New harness connected to the instrument cluster

Power pack back in place and ready to be hooked back up to everything

Drivers side, air cleaner still not in place

Transmission and starter as seen from the transmission tunnel, speedometer cable in place
The rag keeps dirt from getting into the transmission while the shifter is out

Siren back in place, great noise maker for parades

Overhead shot of the finished installation

I found this label under the paint when hooking the alternator back up, it cleaned up with some steel wool

Shifter back in place and the tunnel cover ready to be put back on

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